Pandamonium
I didn’t plan on making another competition hat in 2021, but I couldn’t resist the Bes-Ben theme. I also wanted to support the American Millinery Guild’s first competition. It’s about time that the rest of the world knew about the American milliners. This is really the second to last piece I made in 2021. See below for the actual last piece of the year.
This hat took several weeks to complete, mostly because every part of it was a new technique including the engineering. It might have been my most elaborate head piece since Victoria in Shanghai back in 2019, and my new favorite. I designed a piece that not only included elements from my childhood, but allowed me to be playful without being too Camp. Yes, those are felted Pandas! Yes, all those pandas are also wearing their own hats that I blocked using a small rolling pin, dipping dishes, and thread spools. I tried to include a good representation of traditional hats, fascinators, and crowns.
Back view with more pandas and Kanzashi flowers.
There are 383 pieces of fabric squares folded into petal and leaf shapes using the traditional Japanese Kansashi style flowers. It probably took me two weeks and then some just to make the flowers and leaves. I also had to source the Japanese fabrics, glue and tools as well as many hours of trial and error before I was happy with the final results. I am so happy with the colors that I plan on working on more Kanzashi inspired pieces for the Spring. I have been a little obsessed with vintage Japanese textiles, and have built up a small collection this past year. My interest in Japanese textiles, and the history of the Kimono goes way back to my design school days. Coming back to one of my original loves makes me nostalgic for home, and when I mean “home,” I mean Chinatown. I probably spent almost as much time roaming the streets of Little Tokyo, a neighboring community as I did my own, and attending many festivals. The head pieces that have always meant the most to me have my childhood sewn into them.
I will not bore you with the Pandamonium details, because there are many. You can see some of the images of the hat in progress below.
Outlining the crown base. It’s like draping an outfit, except it’s on the head.
Wiring the crown base. I made symmetrical swirls to add support, and no one knows these swirls are there except me.
Once I completed the Kanzashi leaves, I wired the bamboo into the base. Felted Pandas couldn’t really be glued or sewn in, so I engineered the bamboo to hold them into place. Pretty and functional is the best kind of design.
Testing the panda positions before wiring the flowers in. I repeatedly cleaned up the wool hairs on the Pandas. Every time I touched them, the hairs popped up.
I actually put the pandas on last because the flowers required some intricate wiring and positioning beforehand. Once the flowers were in place, I then lined the frame and exposed flower backings with a type of hat straw called Racello Classic in a patten black. Here’s a great photo of the top of the hat. You can see the tops of the mini hats as well.
Pandamonium is really interesting at every angle.
You can’t really see the Racello straw unless up close, but it does make a difference having it there to keep the base clean visually. One would have to shake this hat pretty hard before a Panda would fall out.
Here’s my final piece for 2021, and something out of the ordinary for me to make. I made time to sew together some of the a vintage design that was collecting dust in my files. What do you think?
My first soft hat piece and last thing I made in 2021. This is made from a wool mohair blend from a vintage pattern. I also styled the model in a blouse I made in cotton voile, a piece I picked up pre-pandemic in Hong Kong.
The new year seems to be moving just as quickly by. I admit that I am feeling a little exhausted from pushing myself hard last month, and squeezing in a final photo shoot. I am so grateful to my model who was generous to come and pose for me during a short visit back to Austin.